New Free Pattern!

I just finished writing my pattern for "Jill-Walker socks." They resemble the Jaywalkers of late Mag Knits fame (sorry....no link since Mag Knits has bitten the dust) but in a prettier, girly way. Kind of like the socks Jay's twin sister Jill might wear.

I'm making the move away for posting raw patterns on the blog and will be uploading exclusively to Ravelry...since really, if you're a knitter, you need to be on Ravelry. And if you're not, go join the waiting list right now!

If you can't/won't/don't want to join Ravelry, but still want the pattern, leave your e-mail address in the comments and I'll e-mail you the PDF file.

For those of you who are on Ravelry, you can find my latest pattern here.

Cupycakes Knit Apron Pattern

UPDATE!
This pattern is now available as a free PDF download on Ravlery.
As I mentioned back in a post from September, I submitted an original pattern to Knitty for consideration. And while I wish I could be telling you that Amy Singer e-mailed me today to tell me that she loved my apron, she didn't. Instead, she let me know that Knitty won't be publishing this pattern (she was very nice about it, though).

Perhaps I am the only person in the world who would like to own a retro-style skirt apron with cupcake pockets. However, in the event that I'm not, I'd like to share it with my knitting, cupcake-loving blog public. This is in a different format than most of my patterns appear as this in the form in which I sent it to Knitty. So without further ado....

Cupycakes

by Carissa Marie Bonham

Piquant

Inspired by retro-style skirt aprons, I decided to combine my two favorite obsessions: knitting and cupcakes. With skirt aprons, knitting and cupcakes each making a strong (not to mention sexy) comeback, this would be the perfect apron to wear while you unleash your inner domestic goddess in the kitchen this holiday season. Make it for yourself or as a gift for your favorite cupcake connoisseur.

This apron is knit in 100% acrylic yarn instead of cotton to keep it both washable and from getting too heavy. Superwash wool would be an appropriate substitute, although may be rather warm to wear in a hot kitchen.

Photo credit [model: Carissa Marie Bonham/photographer: Joe Bonham]

SIZE
One size fits S to XL

FINISHED MEASUREMENTSWaist band (before adding ribbon): 16.5 inches

Length: 18 inches

MATERIALS[MC] Caron Perfect Match [100% Acrylic; 335 yd/325 m per 198 g skein]; color: Bright White; 1 skein

[CC1] Caron Perfect Match [100% Acrylic; 335 yd/325 m per 198 g skein]; color: Lilac; 1 skein

[CC2] Caron Perfect Match [100% Acrylic; 335 yd/325 m per 198 g skein]; color: Cream; 1 skein

3 US #6/4mm straight needles

2 29 or 32 inch US #7/4.5mm circular needles

Notions
Waste yarn (for provisional cast on)
Size H Crochet hook
Tapestry Needle
3 yards of 1.5 inch-wide grosgrain ribbon in a color matching one of the contrasting colors of yarn

GAUGE
18 sts/25 rows = 4” in Stockinette stitch on larger needles
16 sts/25 rows = 4" in seed bump pattern on larger needles (see pattern notes)

PATTERN NOTES
The main body of the skirt is worked back and forth on one circular needle using Seed Bump Pattern (see below). Due to the large quantity of stitches picked up later, the garter stitch ruffle is worked on two circular needles.

Seed Bump Pattern:
Row 1: K1 *P1, K3*
Row 2: P all sts
Row 3: K3 *P1, K3*
Row 4: P all sts

For the CO sts in the skirt shaping section, I recommend using a cable cast on to make it easier to pick up the stitches for the ruffle later in the pattern

PATTERN

Apron: Skirt
Using one of the circular needles, CO 37 sts in MC.

Foundation rows:
WS: P all sts
RS: K all sts
WS: P all sts

Lower Skirt Shaping:
Row 1: CO 8, K1 *P1, K3*
Row 2: CO 8, P to end
Row 3: CO 8, K3 *P1, K3* to last 2 sts, P1, K1
Row 4: CO 8, P to end

Repeat these 4 shaping rows once more as-is.
Repeat one more time without CO sts.

Increase Rows:
Row 1: kfb *P1, K3* to last st, kfb
Row 2: pfb, P to last st, pfb
Row 3: K1 *P1, K3*
Row 4: P all
Row 5: kfb, K2, *P1, K3* to last 2 sts, P1, kfb
Row 6: pfb, P to last st, pfb
Row 7: K 3, *P1, K3* to last 2 st, P1, K1
Row 8: P all
Repeat all 8 increase rows 3 more times (you will have 133 sts)

Continue working in Seed Bump Pattern until skirt measures 15 inches from CO edge. End on a WS row.

Waist Band:
RS: *K1, k2tog, K1* to last st, K1
WS: P all
RS: K3tog to last st, K1
WS: P all
RS: *K1, P1*
WS: *P1, K1*

Repeat last two rows 4 more times

Loosely BO all sts in pattern.

Apron: Ruffle

Ruffle is worked using two circular needles. Begin with one and add second needle when necessary.

Using CC1, pick up 6 sts on side of waist band, pm, pick up 230-250 sts around perimeter of skirt to the bottom of waist band, pm, pick up 6 sts along side of waist band.

WS: P6, sm, *kfb* until marker, sm, P6
RS: K all
Repeat these two rows once more.

WS: P6, sm, K to marker, sm, P6
RS: BO all sts loosely

Cupcake Pockets (make 2)

Cupcake pockets are worked back and forth on sz 6 straight needles.

Cupcake bottom:

Using CC2, CO 23 sts

RS: *K3, P1* 5 times, K3

WS: P3 *K1, P3* to end

Repeat these two rows 6 more times

Leave sts on needle, break yarn and set aside

Cupcake Frosting:
Using scrap yarn and crochet hook, CO 23 sts using provisional CO method
Connect CC1 to provisional CO and work as follows:

Rows 1 and 2: K all
Row 3: K2, ssk, k to last 4, K2tog, K2
Rows 4 and 5: K all

Repeat rows 3-5, 3 more times

Next row: ssk, ssk, K to last 4, k2tog, k2tog
Next row: K all
Repeat these two rows once more

Next row: ssk, K3, k2 tog
Next row: ssk, K1, k2tog
BO all stitches

Joining Cupcake pieces:
Turn Frosting piece over and use knitting needle to pick up CC1 stitches from back of provisional CO (count to make sure you have 23 sts!). Unzip provisional CO and set aside.

Pick up the bottom portion of the cupcake set aside earlier.

Join CC1 and knit across one row

Hold the bottom and frosting pieces, wrong sides together, with the needles pointing the same direction.

Use third knitting needle to knit the first stitch on each needle together

Continue across until all stitches have been knit onto the third needle. You will have 23 sts.

Frosting Ruffle:
This technique might be a little different than anything you’re used to but I think it provides the best “frosting” ruffle effect:

Hold the knitting needle with the live stitches in your left hand and the crochet hook in your right hand.

Using the crochet hook as if it were a knitting needle, knit the first stitch off of the needle.

You will now have 22 sts on your needle and 1 loop on your crochet hook.

Use crochet hook to SC three times into the base of the knit stitch.

Once again:*use crochet hook as a knitting needle to K the next st off the needle (there will be two loops on the crochet hook), wrap yarn from back to front on crochet hook and draw through two loops on crochet hook (there will now be one stitch on hook), work 2 SC into base of st*

Repeat directions between **’s until no more sts remain.

Break yarn and draw through

FINISHING

Weave in ends of cupcakes and apron.

Sew the cupcakes to the apron around their bottom portions to form pockets.

Center and sew the ribbon across the top of the waist band beginning in the center. Try on your completed apron and cut ribbon tails to a length that suits you.

I hope someone other than me enjoys this pattern. You can also find it on Ravelry here.

If you're looking for gift knitting ideas, I think this apron would make a cute "domestic goddess" gift set by pairing it with a cupcake dishcloth or two.

Cupcake Dishcloth

UPDATE!
This pattern is now available as a free PDF download on Ravelry.

Anyone who has been reading this blog for any period of time is not surprised that my knitting and cupcake addictions finally gave birth to a knitted cupcake. I present to you my knitted cupcake dishcloth and pattern:

Cupcake Dishcloth
Pattern by Carissa Bonham

***This pattern may only be used for personal, non-commercial use. Any other use of this pattern and the resulting cupcake including using the pattern for publishing or to sell patterns or finished products requires the specific written permission of the author***

Gauge = 17st = 4” stockinette (sz. 10 needles) although gauge doesn’t matter too much

Yarn = 1 ball Sugar’n Cream Brand cotton yarn in cream (color A)

& 1 ball Sugar’n Cream Brand cotton yarn in hot purple (color B)

Waste yarn in contrasting color from color A and B for provisional cast on

Notions: 3 size 10 knitting needles

Size H crochet hook

Blunt Needle

Bottom of cupcake

CO 24 stitches using long tail cast on in color A

Row 1 (RS): P1 *K3, P1* (5x), K2, P1
Row 2 (WS): P3 *K1, P3* (5x), P1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 six times more times. Set Aside

Frosting
Using crochet hook and waste yarn CO 24 stitches using provisional cast on

Using Color B, knit 2 rows of garter stitch (all K stitches)

Row 3: K2, SSK, K to last 4 stitches, K2TOG, K2
Row 4: K across
Row 5: K across

Repeat rows 3-5 twice more

*SSK, SSK, K to last 4 stitches, K2TOG, K2TOG
Next row: K across*

Repeat the two rows between the *’s once more

Next row: SSK, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K2TOG
Last row: SSK, K2TOG, K2TOG

BO remaining stitches

Joining the cupcake pieces

Turn frosting piece over and use knitting needle to pick up color B stitches from provisional CO
Count to make sure you have 24 stitches
Unzip provisional CO
Set aside

Pick up the bottom piece of the cupcake set aside earlier
Join color B and knit across one row

Hold the bottom and frosting pieces, wrong sides together, with the needles pointing the same direction.

Use third knitting needle to knit through the first stitch on each needle and drop off original needle

Continue across until all stitches have been knit onto the third needle

Frosting Ruffle
This might be a little different than anything you’re used to but I think it provides the best ruffle effect.

Hold the knitting needle with the live stitches in your left hand and hold the crochet hook in your right hand. Using the crochet hook as if it were a knitting needle, knit the first stitch off of the needle

You will now have 23 stitches on your needle and 1 loop on your crochet hook

Use crochet hook to SC three times into the base of the knit stitch

Once again, *use crochet hook as a knitting needle to knit the next stitch off the needle (there will now be two loops on the crochet hook), wrap yarn from back to front on crochet hook and draw through the two loops on crochet hook (there will now be one stitch on hook), work 2 SC into base of stitch*

Repeat directions between *’s until no more stitches remain on knitting needle.

Break yarn and draw through loop.

Finishing
Weave in ends

If anyone decides to knit this, please let me know! I'd love to see pictures.

To contact me regarding permission to use this pattern for anything other than personal, non-commercial use, please contact me by posting a comment in this post (being sure to fill out the e-mail address field).

Thanks!

Finally the Skully Dish Cloth Pattern

**UPDATE**
If you are new to color knitting, please see the FAQ about this pattern for help

Remember this guy? Well I've gotten quite a few requests for the pattern. Hopefully yours will look better than mine. But the theory is if you follow these basic directions, you'll be able to have a rebellious dishrag of yer very own.

The link to the Skull chart I used to make this pattern can be found here (I used the large one).

Please let me know if you find any errors in the pattern as I am remembering it in retrospect and may have gotten something wrong.

Skully Dish Rag

Gauge = 17st = 4” (sz. 10 needles) although gauge doesn’t matter for this project

Yarn = 1 ball Sugar’n Cream Brand cotton yarn in black (color A)

& 1 ball Sugar’n Cream Brand cotton yarn in raspberry (color B)

CO 34 stitches in color A

Bottom Edge

Row 1 (right side): P1 K1 across.

Row 2 (wrong side): K1 P1 across.

Alternate Rows 1 and 2 for 6 rows

Main Body

Row 7 (right side): P1, K1, P1 K to last 3 Stitches, P1, K1, P1.

Row 8 (wrong side): P1, K1, P1, P to last 3 stitches, P1, K1, P1.

Alternate rows 7 and 8 for a total of 6 rows

Start Pattern

Right side: P1, K1, P1, K3 and start pattern at the bottom (which means you will knit 2 more stitches in color A before beginning work with Color B). Once across first row of the pattern, K3 and work last 3 stitches of row in P1, K1, P1 pattern.

Rest of rows for pattern: Continue working back and forth following the pattern beginning with the P1, K1, P1 edge, 3 stitches of stockinette, work across the pattern, 3 stitches of stockinette, P1, K1, P1.

Finishing

Once pattern is complete, work two rows of P1, K1, P1, stockinette across until last 3 stitches, P1, K1, P1.

Work rows 1 and 2 as for bottom edge.

Bind off and weave in ends

Punky Brewster Wrist Warmers

UPDATE!
This pattern is now available as a free PDF download on Ravelry.

I'm not sure why these wrist warmers remind me of Punky Brewster. But I designed them and it's my blog....so I figure I can call them whatever I want. Right Punky?



Want the pattern? Okay....since I'm nice. Here it is:

Punky Brewster Wrist Warmers
pattern by Carissa Bonham
***This pattern may only be used for personal, non-commercial use. Any other use of this pattern (for example, group knitting, publishing or to sell) requires the specific written permission of the author (that would be me)***

Gauge = approx. 5st = 1” (stockinette) *Because these are ribbed they stretch nicely, gauge isn’t super important as long as it is kind of close

Yarn = 1 ball Pattons Classic Wool Merino in Rosewood

Needles = sz. 7 DPNs or size needed to get close to gauge

Co 40 stitches on DPNs and joint to knit in the round

Place marker to track beginning of round and *K2, P2* until piece measure 5”

Turn work (so you are knitting on the WS – on the inside of your circle) and *K2, P2* until you reach end of row.

Turn again and *K2, P2* until end of row.

Continue back and forth like this for 10 more rows (12 rows total)

At the end of row 12, re-join for knitting in the round until piece measures 8” total

Weave in ends

Repeat for second wrist warmer

Please let me know if you decide to do this pattern. I'd love to know how yours turn out and I'd love to post your pics (or a link) if you'll let me. :-)

Happy Knitting!

BookWorm Hats and Free Pattern

BookWorm Hat Pattern
by Carissa Bonham
***This pattern may only be used for personal, non-commercial use. Any other use of this hat including using the pattern for group knitting, publishing or to sell requires the specific written permission of the author (that would be me)***

Gauge = 8st = 3”

Yarn = 1 ball Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Pine 182 (color A)

& 1 ball Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Grass 131 (color B)

Needles: sz. 11, straight needles or size needed to optain gauge

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Cast on 59 stitches with color A

Work in St. st for 4 rows

Switch to color B for 4 rows

Alternate 4 row sections of each color until there are 6 stripes worked or until unrolled hat measures 6”.

Switch to next color and K1, *K6, K2tog* seven times, K2

Purl across

K1, *K5, K2tog* seven times, K2

Purl across

Change colors and K1, *K4, K2tog* seven times, K2

Purl across

K1, *K3, K2tog* seven times, K2

P2, *P2tog, P2* six times, P2tog, P3

Change colors and K1, *K1, K2tog* seven times, K2

Purl across

K1,*K2tog* 8 times

*P2tog* 4 times, P1

Leaving an 8 inch tail trim yarn and thread through remaining stitches on a blunt needle, pulling tight.

Alternating the yarn (so that colors match up) sew up seam with mattress stitch being careful to be sure stripes match up across seam.

When you get to the last stripe along cast on edge, sew seam on WS so that it doesn’t show when edge is rolled up.

Weave in ends

**Tip: to decrease the amount of finishing work required, instead of cutting and re-tying yarn at each color change, allow the color you are not working with to dangle and allow it to run along the side (it will be hidden inside the seam when done).

If anyone decides to knit this hat, please let me know! I'd love to see pictures.

To contact me regarding permission to use this hat for anything other than personal, non-commercial use, please contact me by posting a comment in this post (being sure to fill out the e-mail address field).

Thanks!